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This exploded
view is an example of the most popular way to set-up a residential
watering system. (If you wish to use or price an item shown
in the exploded view, simply click on the item then click
on the “most popular” item to take you straight
to the “product list” (or shopping cart).
Please see below for more information.
Both Contractors and DIYs alike normally
use 25mm black Poly pressure pipe (which has a bore size of
approx 20mm) from the water connection point to the on/off manual
or automatic control valves, then 19mm black “low density”
poly pipe from the valves out to the sprinklers. Pipe with a
bore size of approx 25mm is the next size up, for those people
with higher flowrates (which means you may be able to run more sprinklers
at once) and/or longer pipe runs where you would lose a lot
of pressure in smaller pipe.
There are three main options
of connecting to your water supply:
- Connecting straight to the tap with pressure pipe, low
density pipe, manual multi-outlet distributors, manual timers
or battery-operated automatic timers.
- Connecting behind the tap so that your tap can still be
used for other things. You will then need to put on a 2nd
tap or an ‘approved’ shut-off valve of some
description.
- Connecting into your house mainline, somewhere between
the water meter and the front of the house. In Brisbane,
this mainline is usually 20mm or 25mm Poly pipe, Copper
or Galvanised Iron.
The most popular connection point is the front garden tap which
is usually connected straight to the house mainline, and therefore
has the best flowrate, using Option 2. This is the Option shown
in the Exploded View. Additionally, there
are a number of ways of controlling the on/off operation of
your different sprinkler zones:
- Manual twin tap and multi-outlet distributors connected
straight to your garden tap. The final shut-off operation
should be controlled by the garden tap as these valves are
not pressure rated.
- Manual in-line valves. The final shut-off operation should
be controlled by the garden tap as these valves are not
pressure rated.
- Manual pressure-rated ball valves.
- Battery-operated single & multi-station automatic
controllers and valves. In most cases these are of a lesser
quality than the 24vac controllers.
- 24vac Automatic controllers and valves. The controller
plugs into your 240volt power point then has a transformer
reducing the power supply to a safe 24vac.
The most popular method of automatic control is Option 5.
The most popular method of manual control is purely a personal
decision, however, if you are looking at converting to automatic
at a later date, go with Option 3.
Option 5 is shown in the exploded view.
Point of Interest:
There are really only 3 sections to an irrigation system
- Water supply (Water connection point to
the control valves).
- Manual or Automatic sprinkler zone control,
whichever is applicable.
- The sprinkler zone which includes sprinklers,
sprinkler pipe and fittings.
Basic rules to follow to ensure you have
a system that performs well:
- Do not exceed 80% of your available Flowrate
from your tap. The leftover pressure will go toward propelling
the water outwards.
- Do not exceed the Flowrate
shown for the pipe size you select. Total sprinkler flowrate
will be calculated by adding together all the individual
sprinkler flowrates within a zone.
- Do a Head to
Head sprinkler layout along a lateral run. This means
sprinklers with a 5mt radius should be spaced no further
than 5mt apart creating at least 100% overlap.
- Group your sprinklers within a zone
according to their style of watering and application e.g.
keep your lawns and gardens separate. The five main sprinkler
groups are:
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