This exploded view is an example of the most popular way to set-up a residential watering system. (If you wish to use or price an item shown in the exploded view, simply click on the item then click on the “most popular” item to take you straight to the “product list” (or shopping cart).

Please see below for more information.


Both Contractors and DIYs alike normally use 25mm black Poly pressure pipe (which has a bore size of approx 20mm) from the water connection point to the on/off manual or automatic control valves, then 19mm black “low density” poly pipe from the valves out to the sprinklers. Pipe with a bore size of approx 25mm is the next size up, for those people with higher flowrates (which means you may be able to run more sprinklers at once) and/or longer pipe runs where you would lose a lot of pressure in smaller pipe.

There are three main options of connecting to your water supply:

  1. Connecting straight to the tap with pressure pipe, low density pipe, manual multi-outlet distributors, manual timers or battery-operated automatic timers.
  2. Connecting behind the tap so that your tap can still be used for other things. You will then need to put on a 2nd tap or an ‘approved’ shut-off valve of some description.
  3. Connecting into your house mainline, somewhere between the water meter and the front of the house. In Brisbane, this mainline is usually 20mm or 25mm Poly pipe, Copper or Galvanised Iron.

The most popular connection point is the front garden tap which is usually connected straight to the house mainline, and therefore has the best flowrate, using Option 2. This is the Option shown in the Exploded View.

Additionally, there are a number of ways of controlling the on/off operation of your different sprinkler zones:

  1. Manual twin tap and multi-outlet distributors connected straight to your garden tap. The final shut-off operation should be controlled by the garden tap as these valves are not pressure rated.
  2. Manual in-line valves. The final shut-off operation should be controlled by the garden tap as these valves are not pressure rated.
  3. Manual pressure-rated ball valves.
  4. Battery-operated single & multi-station automatic controllers and valves. In most cases these are of a lesser quality than the 24vac controllers.
  5. 24vac Automatic controllers and valves. The controller plugs into your 240volt power point then has a transformer reducing the power supply to a safe 24vac.

The most popular method of automatic control is Option 5.

The most popular method of manual control is purely a personal decision, however, if you are looking at converting to automatic at a later date, go with Option 3.

Option 5 is shown in the exploded view.


Point of Interest:
There are really only 3 sections to an irrigation system
  • Water supply (Water connection point to the control valves).
  • Manual or Automatic sprinkler zone control, whichever is applicable.
  • The sprinkler zone which includes sprinklers, sprinkler pipe and fittings.
Basic rules to follow to ensure you have a system that performs well: